Summer Fruit Kuchen

summer fruit kuchen

Once in a while, we are called upon to make food for work. Sometimes, it’s for someone’s birthday; sometimes, there’s a theme associated with the food; sometimes, it’s to test recipes. This time, it was just a hey-let’s-everyone-bring-in-food-and-eat-it thing. With the Fourth of July being only three days away, what do you suppose the theme was this time?

Of course, the theme was German Food. Because nothing says “American patriotism” like sauerkraut and spaetzel. Yes, we know — we’re confused, too.

With that challenge, we made the most summery German dessert we could find: a summer fruit kuchen. Made with ripe peaches, blueberries and plums, this moist cake takes advantage of these three summery fruits at their peak (in season in California, at least). How do you make it? Like Ma Kettle says: “Oh, it’s a drop of this, and a drop of that. Put it in a pan and shove it in the oven.” Yeah, what she said.


Summer Fruit Kuchen
(adapted from a recipe in Woman’s Day)

Heat oven to 350°F. Grease a springform pan or line a 9-in. square baking pan with nonstick foil; let foil extend over ends of pan. Mix 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour, 1 tsp. baking powder, 1/4 tsp. of cinnamon and 1/4 tsp. of salt in a small bowl. Beat 1 1/2 sticks of softened butter and 3/4 cup of sugar in a large bowl until smooth. Beat in 2 large eggs and 3 tsp. vanilla extract just until combined. Beat in flour mixture and 1/3 cup of milk until blended. Gently fold 1  cup of blueberries into batter. Spread batter into prepared pan and spread in an even layer. Top with 1 sliced peach and 3 sliced plums, evenly spaced in batter. Scatter another 1/2 cup of blueberries over the top.

Topping: In a medium bowl, rub together 3 Tbsp. of flour3 Tbsp. of light brown sugar, 1/4 tsp. of ground cinnamon and 2 Tbsp. of butter cut into small pieces with your fingertips until moistened and clumpy, then scatter over fruit.

Bake 55 to 60 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean and kuchen starts to pull away slightly from sides of pan. Cool in pan on wire rack before serving.

Guten appetit!

Dining Out: Quality Social

Sometimes, being a magazine editor is really very nice. We had the opportunity to visit the kitchen of Quality Social, a restaurant in the Gaslamp District of San Diego, Calif., to take some snapshots for a magazine we are working on about meat and charcuterie.

Salted, smoked and aged meats are a point of pride at Quality Social, and they make them all in-house. A few of the things they gave us to eat included sopressatta, finnochiona, pate de campagna, mortadella, pepperone, chorizo, pastrami, coppa, toscano, potted rilette and lardo (yes, we ate pork fat spread on a baguette). The sous chef came out of the kitchen to explain what everything was, pointing out the different parts that made up some of the meats. (“This one is a baby pig, and here are what used to be his thighs,” he said, or something along those lines; we were busy eating the baby pig’s parts.) We ate the meat with a selection of raw milk cheeses made in California. One of them was as soft and white as the lardo, but tasted pure and milky.

Even though we were all up in their kitchen, asking questions and snapping photos, they were very nice and accommodating. We want to go back!


Quality Social
789 6th Avenue
San Diego, Calif. 92101
www.qualitysocial.com

Shrimp & Bok Choy Noodle Soup

shrimp and bok choy noodle soup

This soup has all the elements of pho, but it’s been Americanized. We didn’t even eat it with chopsticks (well, we did at first, then switched to forks and spoons). And we put bok choy in it, because we can.


  • 3 ounces of rice noodles
  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 4 scallions, chopped
  • 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
  • 6 baby bok choy, cut into quarters
  • 1/4 pound shrimp
  • 2 Tbsp. fish sauce
  • juice of 1 lime
  • 1/2 cup bean sprouts, for garnish
  • 2 Tbsp.  cilantro, chopped, for garnish

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the rice noodles, and cook until almost tender. Drain and set aside.

In another pot (or in the same pot as the rice noodles — just take them out first), add the chicken broth, water, carrot, scallions and mushrooms, and bring to a simmer. Once simmering, add the bok choy and shrimp, and cook until the shrimp is pink. Remove from heat, and add lime juice.

Dish the noodles into bowls, then add the shrimp, vegetables and stock. Garnish with bean sprouts and cilantro (and lots of Sriracha).

Bacon and Leek Potato Salad

Bacon and Leek Potato Salad

This is our new go-to potato salad. It has leeks in it, and bacon, and — we can just stop right there, because there’s no need to say anything else about the two most perfect foods in the world: bacon and leeks.


  • 1/2 pound bacon (about 8 slices), cut into 1/2-inch bits
  • 5 large red-skinned potatoes (don’t peel them), cut into quarters
  • 2 large leeks
  • 2 ribs celery
  • 1 carrot
  • 1 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 eggs

Fry Up the Bacon
In a heavy-bottomed pot, fry the bacon pieces until they’re crispy. Remove the bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon and let it drain on a paper towel. Let the bacon grease sit in the pot a bit while you get the potatoes ready.

Cook the Potatoes
Put the quartered potatoes into a pot, and add water until the potatoes are covered. Add about two pinches of salt to the water, and stir. Bring the potatoes to a boil over medium heat, and cook until they are fork-tender (but not mushy! They shouldn’t disintegrate when you poke them, they should just give a little and retain their shape.). Drain the potatoes, and return them to the pot to sit while you get the leek mixture ready.

Bring on the Leeks
You want just the white and light green parts of the leeks, so cut off the dark green tops and discard them (or save them to make vegetable stock). Cut the leeks in half, and run them under water to get all the dirt and grit out from between the layers. Cut each half into ½-inch pieces (they should look like smiles).

Heat your pot of bacon grease to medium-high and throw in the leeks. Saute them for about five minutes. They’ll start to look a little opaque.

Celery & Carrots
Mince the carrot, and add it to the leeks. Cut the celery in half lengthwise, then dice it into small (but not as small as the carrots) pieces. Add the celery to the leek-and-carrot mixture. Add the olive oil. Saute everything until it’s soft and smells wonderful. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn off the heat and let it sit while you busy yourself with the eggs that you almost forgot you needed.

Just Remembered the Eggs
Yes, you will need to get out another pot (just a small one, though). Place the eggs in a small pot and add water until they are covered. Set them on the stove, bring them to a boil, then turn off the heat. Let them sit in the hot water for five minutes, then rinse them under cool water and peel off the shells. Chop the hardboiled eggs into pieces.

Eat Time
Get out a nice, big bowl. Put the cooked potatoes in the bowl. Toss in the cooked leek mixture. Toss in the bacon pieces. Toss in the hardboiled eggs. Stir everything together gently, making sure not to smash the potatoes to bits (they are delicate). Step back and admire all the colors in your fresh potato salad.

Serve warm and eat on the couch with your husband while watching a Nicholas Cage movie. It also taste excellent chilled (but then you must watch a Bruce Willis movie).

Korova Cookies

korova cookies

I like to make these cookies and call them by their nickname, “World Peace Cookies,” because it makes them sound very important. Cookies this good need a very important-sounding name. Something with all capital letters would be best, in 16 point type. KOROVA COOKIES.

I also like to call them chocolate sables (pronounced sah-blays), because French words also make food sound important. A sable sounds like a cookie that is extraordinarily difficult to make — something that wouldn’t come out right unless you’ve apprenticed in a patisserie in Paris.

Whatever they’re called, the reality is that Korova Cookies take about 10 minutes of active time: You mix the dough together (I do it by hand). Then it sits in the fridge for a day. Then you slice it and bake the rounds. These cookies are very simple, but taste like something very important.


Adapted from the book Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan

  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 stick plus 3 tablespoons (11 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 2/3 cup (packed) light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 cup  mini chocolate chips

Whisk the flour, cocoa and baking soda together in a bowl.

In a different bowl, beat the butter until soft and creamy. Add both sugars, the salt and vanilla extract and mix until incorporated.

Add the flour to the butter mixture, and mix just until the flour disappears into the dough.  Work the dough as little as possible once the flour is added. Add the chocolate pieces and mix only to incorporate. You can even use your hands at this point (I do).

Dump the dough onto a work surface, gather it together and divide it in half. Working with one half at a time, shape the dough into logs that are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Wrap the logs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for at least 3 hours. (I always refrigerate them overnight.)

When you’re ready to bake, place a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Slice the logs into rounds that are 1/2 inch thick. If the rounds crumble as you cut, just patch them together. Place them on the cookie sheet about 1 inch apart.

Bake the cookies for 12 minutes and let them cool. Makes about 3 dozen.

Wine and Citrus Vinaigrette

wine and citrus vinegarette

Lemony, winey (probably not a word) and slightly sweet: This vinaigrette has it going on.  If you’re feeling particularly ambitious, you can use homemade red wine. In fact, the recipe we tested called for homemade wine. Not having any on hand, we substituted a nice bottle of red we bought at the grocery store, instead.


  • 1/2 cup red wine
  • 1/4 cup red or white wine vinegar
  • juice and zest from one lemon
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 T. salt
  • 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
  • 1 tsp. sugar or honey
  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil

In a bowl, whisk together wine, vinegar, lemon juice and zest, garlic, salt, pepper, mustard, and sugar or honey. Continue whisking as you drizzle in olive oil. Toss with fresh mixed salad greens and serve immediately. Makes about 2 cups.

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